CHARLES DARWIN RESEARCH STATION:
Every Galapagos tour visits the Charles Darwin Research Station, which was established in 1961 to solve the problems of wildlife conservation in the archipelago. Aside from the development of operations to ensure the survival of endangered plant and animal species, the Darwin Station has coordinated several conservation-oriented educational programs for Ecuadorian students.

The Tortoise Rearing Center is also visited. National Park Wardens have collected tortoise eggs from various islands where they have been preyed on and threatened to the point of extinction by several species of introduced mammals. The eggs are then incubated, and the hatchlings are raised for several years, until they are able to withstand the predatory efforts of the mammals that man has introduced to the Galápagos.

THE HIGHLANDS (GEMELOS): Several tours visit the Highlands of Santa Cruz. As your bus or van leaves Puerto Ayora, the scenery will continuously change as you ascend through all seven Vegetation Zones if the Galápagos. A favorite stop is Los Gemelos (The Twins), a pair of large pit craters (or sinkholes) formed by a collapse of the ground located over a subsurface fissure (fault). Another point of attraction is a trail leading to an area where there are usually several vermilion flycatchers.

BACHAS:
Located on the north shore of Santa Cruz, close to the Baltra Airport, Las Bachas is a swimming beach that serves as a Visitor Site on your first or last touring day. There’s not much to see while snorkeling. One of the few remnants of the U.S. World War II presence in the Galápagos, a floating pier, can be seen here.

CALETA TORTUGA NEGRA (Black Turtle Cove): This wonderful Visitor Site is located on the northern portion or Santa Cruz Island near Las Baches. The tour consists of a panga ride through a series of mangrove-surrounded coves and intents. Here one often views several pairs of mating marine turtles (especially between September-February), white-tipped sharks, spotted eagle rays, and beautiful yellow cow-nosed rays.

In order to avoid disturbing the wildlife, the outboard motor on the panga is turned off and passengers are urged to be very quiet. This visit is frequently at the beginning or toward the end of tours originating at Baltra Airport.

TORTUGA BAY:
Considered by many to be the most beautiful beach in the Galápagos, Tortuga Bay is a half-hour walk from Puerto Ayora and is a favorite weekend spot of the locals.

SANTA FE (BARRINGTON): The island of Santa Fe is located in the southeastern portion of the archipelago, between the towns of Puerto Ayora (on Santa Cruz) and Puerto Baquerizo Moreno (on San Cristobal). It’s about 2-hour cruise from Puerto Ayora and about 3 hours from Puerto Baquerizo Moreno. Santa Fe is another volcanic uplift. Your tour begins with a wet landing (on the northeastern portion on the island) at a beach known for ornery sea lion bulls. The Park Service, making it much easier to traverse has recently redone the trail.

The main attraction here is the opportunity to find and observe one of the few remaining land iguanas of the species (Conolophus pallidus) endemic to Santa Fe Island. After your tour, swimming and snorkeling often follow. Be cautions about the somewhat-aggressive sea lion bulls (that are known to frequent this area) in the water.

SOUTH PLAZA: The Plazas are a pair of islets situated just off the East Coast of Santa Cruz. Only South Plaza is a Visitor Site and is another example of a geological uplift. In this case, the southern portion of this narrow islet (only a couple hundred yards wide) has considerably more uplift to it, forming cliffs with spectacular views. The tour begins with a dry landing. There is often a sea lion guarding the natural rock; let the Guide take care of the situation (which is often achieved with little more than a clapping of the hands).

The trail leading to the cliffs goes through a combined Coastal and Dry Vegetation Zone with prickly pear cactus and extensive patches of salt-though it turns green when rainfall is abundant.

The prickly (opuntia) cactus is the food base of the land iguana, also found in this area. Over the last few years, the 1982-83 has depleted the generally large population of land iguanas on South Plaza. El Niño weather phenomenon; during which a high percentage of the cacti were destroyed root rot (caused by the excessive rainfall) the cacti were never able to recover, due to a long-term drought; and in turn many of the land iguanas were starved off and their numbers reduced.

The effects are still seen, with fewer and skinnier land iguanas in the area, but according to the Darwin Station, it is only expected to stabilize the population, not to threaten it.

NORTH SEYMOUR:

This islet is located just north of Baltra and is also called North Seymour (with Baltra occasionally, but rarely, referred to as South Seymour). This is another geological uplift (see the section above on the Islet of Mosquera). After a sometimes-tricky dry landing your 1 hour land tour will begin by negotiating a few feet of slippery rocks, past an area where you are likely to encounter some swallow-tailed gulls and, of course, a few sea lions. Soon you’ll arrive at one of the major nesting areas of the blue-footed booby.

The “nets” include the trail itself; watch where you step. Their breeding cycle does vary, however, and is influenced by several factors, including the overall feeding conditions. Regardless of the time of year, the star attractions of the tour will be the largest colony of magnificent frigabirds in the Galápagos.

ESPAÑOLA (HOOD)
The southernmost island in the archipelago, Española, is the gateway into and out of the Galápagos for some of the sea birds, (which will leave the islands either after the breeding season and/or often in times of food shortage). The remote location relative to the other island has resulted in a high degree of species differentiation, such as the brightly colored marine iguanas; some species (easier thought of as subspecies) are actually endemic to Española, such as the Hood mockingbird and the Española lava lizard.

The waved albatross is endemic to Española as well as to the Galápagos.
There are two visitor sited on Española: Gardner Bay and Punta Suarez. If had the option, I would prefer to visit Punta Suarez in the afternoon, during and after the return flights of the sea birds (from their fishing trips).

PUNTA SUAREZ: Forming the western tip of Española, Punta Suarez offers the tourist a great abundance of wildlife, especially sea birds. After your landing, aside from the sea lions, you will be approached by the endemic Hood mockingbird, and (especially in the afternoon) red-billed tropicbirds will be winging their way back and forth. The marine iguanas on Española are among the largest in the Galápagos and are brightly colored throughout the year; on other island, these would be called “seasonal breeding colors” The lava lizards are also above-average size, and the female’s red throat coloring is pronounced. Once on the trail you will soon approach a series of tall rock formation on which a colony of masked boobies is generally found. After you continue on, nesting blue-footed boobies will most likely be everywhere on and just off the trail. These are the types of scenes you envisioned when your decision was made to visit the Galápagos Island.

GARDNER BAY: Situated on the northeastern portion of Española, Gardner Bay is swimming and snorkeling site, with a beach that faces the islet of Gardner-near Española. You’ll have a wet landing amidst a large colony of sea lions. BARTOLOME: The small island of Bartolomé is located off the Eastern Shore of James Island, across what is called Sullivan Bay. Actually, Sullivan Bay is a Visitor Site on James Island (see below) as well as a body of water. Your two-part (sometimes three-part) excursion begins with a dry landing, followed by a strenuous 30 – 40 minute hike to the summit of a once-active volcano. I classify this as strenuous only because it is a steep climb; the footing is fairly easy, however (although loose and sandy), with a wooden stairway covering most of the distance. Also, there are no tricky rocks to traverse.The stairs are for your convenience as well as to prevent erosion; do not walk to the side of them. This is one of the most popular visits in all the Galápagos because of the beautiful panoramic views offered at the top.

The volcanic features include lava formations as well as spatter cones and dense cones. Speaking of cones, you will see Pinnacle Rock, a most striking example of a tuff cone (a vertical rock formation of hardened ash). There are also good examples of pioneering plants, including some beautiful stands of lava cactus.

JAMES (SANTIAGO)
James is a large, somewhat barren island northwest of Santa Cruz with a mostly volcanic landscape. The once well - represented vegetation has been severely altered by the feral goat population, at one time estimated at upwards of 100,000. Due to an extensive, joined effort by the Galápagos National Park Service and the Charles Darwin Research Station, the goat population has been significantly reduced in recent years to around 60,000. Several of the visiting yachts have been known to sail away with “a side of goat”, and it is common to refer to all good on-board meat dishes as “chivo de Santiago) – goat from James Island.

SULLIVAN BAY: Located at the eastern coast of James Island, across from Bartolomé, Sullivan Bay offers a rare look at a recently – formed lava field. The eruptions are through to have taken place around 1890, which is recent enough in geological terms. A dry landing is usually made, but if the seas aren’t calm, a wet landing at the beach area may be necessary. Visitors get to swim and snorkel.

ESPUMILLA BEACH: After a wet landing on a large beach, a walk through a mangrove forest leads to a lagoon usually inhabited by a group of flamingos as well as pintail ducks and common stilts. This is a nesting site as well as a feeding area for the flamingos. Sea turtles dig their nests at the edge of the mangroves, and care must be taken not to walk on these large depressed areas in the dark-hued sand. There is often time for swimming and snorkeling at the end of the tour.

JAMES BAY:
Located on the west side of James Bay, the west landing on the dark sands of Puerto Ayora, James Bay leads to one of the more rewarding visits in the Galápagos -a swine in the Fur Seal Grotto. First, though, a trail leads island to the remains of a salt mining operation, one of several largely – unsuccessful attempts to commercialize the Galápagos. Some groups will make the 1 hour round trip to the Sugarloa Volcano (about 1000ft elevation). But it is the Fur Seal Grotto that produces the most pleasure for visitors. Here one can swim with both fur seal once thought to be on the verge of extinction.

BUCCABEER COVE: Located on the northwest corner of the island, this area was a haven for pirates during the 1600s and 1700s. This is typically a cruise by point due to the sometimes-unsafe (wet) landing conditions (when the sea is active) and the lack of unique wildlife. Also, the large fenced-in vegetation area (used as protection from the goats) doesn’t make it the most popular of Visitor Sites.

RABIDA: Often termed the geographic center of the Galápagos, the islet of Rábida is located just south of James Island. The tour begins with a wet landing on a dark red beach, the coloring of which is volcanic in origin. A short a walk leads to a salt water lagoon, where flamingos are sometimes seen; this is a feeding area for them, and not a nesting site, this accounting for their only occasional presence. The salt bush at the far side of the lagoon is a nesting area for the brown pelican, providing a rare look at pelican family life. Rábida is said to have the most diversified volcanic rocks of all the islands. The interior of the islet is a sloping hillside covered with Palo Santo trees. The tour often ends with a swimming and snorkeling opportunity; actually, this is my favorite snorkeling site in the islands, offering a tremendous diversity of near-shore and pelagic fishes. SAN CRISTOBAL: San Cristobal is the easternmost island in the archipelago. The principal town of Puerto Baquerizo Moreno is the capital of the Galápagos province; the administration offices and a major Ecuadorian Navy facility are located here, as well as one of the two major airports linking the Galápagos to the mainland. JUNCO LAKE: Located in the highlands, this is the only sizable fresh Water Lake in the Galápagos. This Visitor Site is reached by bus or van, and is about a half-hour drive Vegetation Zones and the farming community of El Progreso. The cavity of the lake is the caldera of an extinct volcano. El Junco is fed by rainwater, and the volume varies with the season; it may not be advisable to visit this site during the rainy season (January – April) because of possible muddy conditions. KICKER ROCK (LEON DORMIDO): Located about an hour and a half to the northeast of Puerto Baquerizo Moreno, Kicker Rock is a remnant of a vertical tuff cone formation, abruptly rising almost 500 ft from the ocean. Erosion has split the rock and given it its characteristic shape, which some see as a shoe, the origin of the name Kicker Rock. Others see it as a sleeping sea lion or kicker Rock in Spanish. CLOBOS ISLAND: Situated less than an hour’s ride from Puerto Baquerizo Moreno, Lobos islet is a seasonal nesting location for the blue-footed booby. There is no annual schedule for their presence, however. This, combined with the rough, rocky terrain, make Lobos one of my least favorite Visitor Sites. If you feel that you might have difficulty with the walk, skip this land tour. PUNTA PITT: Forming the northeast point of San Cristóbal, Punta Pitt is a new Visitor Site, opened in 1.989. This area is a tuff formation that serves as a nesting site for many sea birds, including blue-footed, masked, and red-footed boobies, frigatebirds, swallow-tailed gulls, and storm petrels. Punta Pitt is considered by many to be a first class Visitors Site. It is hoped that many of the boats that sail from San Cristóbal will take the time to stop here (rather than at some of the less-worthwhile areas that are closer to the airport). You tour at Punta Pitt begins with a wet landing; the seas can be a bit rough here at times, so protect your camera equipment. FLOREANA (CHARLES): Located directly south of Santa Cruz and west of Española, Floreana is also somewhat isolated, being a 4-5 hours cruise from either of its neighbors. The combination of nutrient-rich soil and an adequate water supply make Floreana an island of abundant plant life. This fact was not lost on the centuries of settlers who chose to live and farm on Floreana, giving the island a rich human history. There are three official Visitors Sites on Floreana – Punta Cormorant, the Devil’s Crown, and Post Office Bay. PUNTA CORMORANT: Forming the northern tip of Floreana, Punta Cormorán is one of the most interesting Visitors Sites in the Island, with an emphasis on plant life and shore birds. Your first lesson will be in geology, however, as the tour begins with a wet landing on a beach with “green sand”. Olive green that is, for these is olivine crystals, volcanically-derives silicates of magnesium and iron. The trail soon leads to a brackish lagoon, where there are usually a few flamingos at the far end. Often too far good photos. DEVIL´S CROWN: The Devil’s Crown, located just off Punta Cormorán, is said to offer the best snorkeling in the Galápagos (although it tends to be overcrowded a times and is not my favorite site). In fact, the only way to see the crown is by water; it is termed a Marine Visitor Site, and no landings are allowed. Sometimes referred to as Onslow Island, this is an almost completely submerged volcano, and erosion has transformed the cone into a series of jagged peaks; as a result, this site really does look like a devil’s crown. You will typically get to snorkel at Devil’s crown right after visiting Punta Cormorant. The panga will take you over to the site and will remain in the area while you snorkel. This is a necessary safety factor, as the currents here can be very strong. Listen to and heed your Guide’s advice and cautions! There are hammerhead sharks that frequent the area just outside Devil’s Crown. They are not dangerous, and it is considered safe to swim in the same area, but it is always advisable to avoid them and certainly not to approach. POST OFFICE BAY: Located at the northern end of Floreana, just to the west of Punta Cormoran. Post Office Bay is not the most scenic of the Galápagos Visitors Sites, but certainly one of the most famous. For here is where the Post Office Barrel was placed and put into use in the late 18th century by English whaling vessels; soon the American whalers were using this “post office” as well. The idea was for the crew of the outbound ships to deposit any mail for home in the barrel; inbound whalers would then pick up any mail that was destined for their part of the world. You may have some swimming time after your tour; there isn’t much in the way of snorkeling here. TOWER (GENOVESA): Located in the northeast portion of the Galápagos (less than half a degree north of the equator). Tower is an outpost for many sea birds.

DARWIN BAY: As mentioned above, the anchorage al Darwin Bay, located on the southern portion of the island is actually the caldera of an extinct, partially-eroded volcano, with the surrounding cliffs forming the inner portion of the rim. While the origin of the name Tower is not known, one can imagine it had something to do with these towering cliffs. The tour will be a long, fairly easy walk, but it is usually hot and dry here, so you may want to carry some water. PRINCE PHILIPS STEPS: This tour begins with a fantastic panga ride along the base of the cliffs. During the ride, you can look directly up and see one red-billed tropicbird after the other trying to make a precise landing in their nest. Squadrons of frigatebirds are seen flying back and forth in their endless piratical pursuits. Red-footed boobies are perched on branches of Palo Santo trees, which seem to grow out of the cliffs. Once at the top, a trail enters an open area nesting masked boobies and great frigatebirds are found. As the wooded area begins, a few short-eared owls are occasionally seen. Their presence and numbers generally depend on the abundance of storm petrels. ISABELA (ALBEMARLE): With over 1800 square miles (more than half the land surface area in the archipelago), and about 80 miles in length, the seahorse-shaped Isabela is the largest island in the Galápagos. This wasn’t always the case, as originally there were six islands, each with an active volcano. The extensive lava flows from the six volcanoes) Alcedo, Cerro Azul, Darwin Ecuador, Sierra Negra, and Wolf) joined together and formed what is today Isabela. Five of the six volcanoes (all by Ecuador) are still active; the wolf Volcano is the highest point at 5.600 ft. VILLAMIL: The town of Villamil is located on the southeastern coast of Isabela. Antonio Gil founded Villamil in 1897 as the center of a lime-producing operation. During the same time period, a second town called Santo Tomás was located a few miles inland. SIERRA NEGRA VOLCANO: Located in the southern portion of Isabela, the Sierra Negra Volcano is below the Perry Isthmus and above the Cerro Azul Volcano. Sierra Negra is considered to be the oldest and largest volcano on Isabela, with its caldera measuring about 5 miles by 6 miles across. A 1-2 day trip to the rim of Sierra Negra is available as an option to some of the 2-week Galápagos tours. ALCEDO VOLCANO: The Alcedo Volcano is centrally located and just north of the Perry Isthmus. Aside from Sierra Negra, Alcedo is the oldest and largest of the volcanoes on Isabela, with the caldera measuring about 4 miles by 5 miles across. There are several steaming fumaroles, often used by hikers as a landmark, with the largest of these steam and gas vents called ¨ the Geyser ¨. Two-week Galapagos tours sometimes offer a 1-2 day trip to the rim of the Alcedo Volcano. Few of the Tour Operators recommend or offer the 1 day trip, due to the physical exertion required (to get back to the boat before nightfall) and the lack of quality visiting time. Thus, most Alcedo trips camp overnight on the rim of the volcano.The Alcedo excursions are logistically very difficult. To begin with, it is the most difficult trek in the Galapagos. It is a long 6 mile climb (4-6 hours each way), part of it over steep, rugged terrain. So you have to be physically fit. And have a strong back if you are spending the night, because you’ll have to pack 25-35 pounds up the volcano. The views up here are beautiful. The fumaroles are also very impressive. Also, this area is home to the largest population of giant tortoises (over 4000) in the Galapagos. And they are in the wild, not in holding pens. During the rainy season (January–June), they can be seen wallowing in mud pools. Here are several Galapagos hawks in the area as well as vermilion flycatchers. Those of you that camp on the rim will savor the experience of this location, the edge of a still-active volcano, a special place on earth where few people have set foot. The fact that you worked hard to get there will not escape your senses. The following day brings a sunrise you don’t want to miss and a more extensive hike along the rim before the descent back to the beach and, finally, the boat. PUNTA ALBERMALE: Located at the northern tip of Isabela (forming the horns or raised ears of the seahorse), Punta Albemarle was used as a radar base by the U.S. during World War II. As one sails past, the abandoned water tanks can be viewed through a pair of binoculars. Often that’s all that will be seen as very few boats land here, due in part to the rough surf. ELIZABETH BAY: Elizabeth Bay is situated on the West Coast, about at third of the way up, at the narrow Perry Isthmus (6 miles wide). This is a Marine Visitor Site; landings are not permitted. The tour is a panga ride that begins with a visit to a few rocky islets where a small colony of penguins is usually found. The penguins prefer the cooler waters of the western portion of the archipelago, and it is only here that they breed. Flightless cormorants and giant marine iguanas are also seen. The largest marine iguanas in the Galapagos are found on Isabela, due to the upwelling activity, which produces plentiful marine iguana food-algae. The tour continues as the panga enters a narrow cove, lined with large red mangrove trees. Here, marine turtles, rays, and shore birds can be seen. PUNTA GARCIA: Punta García is located on the eastern coast, across the Isabela Channel from James Island. Except for early in the morning, the dry landing is not an easy one. Sometimes not a very dry one either. All things considered, this is not my favorite Visitor Site, but it is the only opportunity to visit Isabela (and to see flightless cormorants) without sailing around to the western shore. PUNTA MORENO: Situated on the southwest portion of Isabela, Punta Moreno is often the first western island Visitor Site for boats approaching from the south. The tour begins with a panga ride along the beautiful rocky shores where penguins and shore birds, including great blue herons, are usually spotted. The panga the enters a grove of mangroves, where oysters can be seen at the base of the trees. After a dry landing, a difficult trek begins that traverses the sharpest lava rocks in the islands. This is another tour to skip if you’re not up for a rough hike. Also, this is a harsh, dry climate, and you may want to pack some water. While the terrain is rough, this is a recommended tour. The environment is enigmatic; the driest lava fields you will ever see are interspersed with lagoons and small ponds containing abundant wildlife, including a few pintail ducks and flamingos. There are several clumps of lava and other pioneering plants here, but a species of scalesia is also seen, as is the carpenter bee, one of the few insect pollinators in the Galapagos. There is verification at every vantage point that the advanced forms were here first and were partially displaced by subsequent eruptions of the Sierra Negra volcano. TAGUS COVE: Tagus Cove is located on the West Coast, about two-thirds of the way up Isabela, across the narrow Channel from Fernandina. As soon as your boat enters this protected cove, you can (as they say) see the writing on the wall. For here indeed are written the names of many ships, dating back to the 1.800s. After a dry landing, you can view the graffiti from a closer distance, where it doesn’t look any prettier. Fortunately the majority of the guides prevent any further ocurrences of this type of pollution. The land tour is a bit strenuous in that a steep climb is involved; some people with difficulty walking may want to remain on the boat. This is also another of those dry areas, and a sip of packed water may be refreshing after the uphill climb. The tour begins at a trail leading to a salt-water lagoon of unknown origin (because, oddly enough, it’s higher than sea level). The trail slopes up the base of the Darwin Volcano, providing a great view of the fragile lava fields, the volcanic formations, and the ocean as well. FERNANDINA (NARBOROUGH) PUNTA ESPINOSA: Is a wonderful Visitor Site. Located on the northeast portion of Fernandina, across the channel from Tagus cove, Isabela it is a narrow point of land, more like lava and sand, extending, and you may spot a few penguins from the panga on one of the rocky islet that dot this part of the coast. As you near the tip of the point, you will pass a large colony of sea Lyons’s a wonderful Visitor Site. Located on the northeast portion of Fernandina, across the channel from Tagus cove, Isabela it is a narrow point of land, more like lava and sand, extending, and you may spot a few penguins from the panga on one of the rocky islet that dot this part of the coast. As you near the tip of the point, you will pass a large colony of sea lions.